Reader Query - Proper Undergarments for 1960s Shift Dresses

In addition to yesterday's question about the proper undergarments for a low-backed dress, reader Tara also inquired about the correct foundations for 1960s shift dresses. Are a bra and panties enough?

I love this dress on you Tara! And you've asked another great question! The fact of the matter is, shift and sheath style dresses from the early to mid 1960s were designed to be worn with a girdle and women still considered them a necessity during these years. It wasn't until the later 1960s, with the advent of knits, pantyhose, and pants for day wear that the girdle loses favor with younger women.

Girdles from this time do become sleeker, though, with fewer seams and newer innovations in stretch fabrics.

And you'll find foundations in brighter colors and prints start to appear. The nice thing about the dresses from this era is that modern body shapers will probably give you the sleek look you want, so it's not necessary to search for vintage foundations.

Most importantly, though, you should wear a slip over your foundations to allow your dress to glide smoothly over them. Here's an earlier post of mine about the importance of wearing a slip.

Tara, while your 60s dresses look great, try wearing them with a body shaper and see if it makes a difference in how they fit. I think you'll like what you see! Thanks for your questions. And if anyone else has questions, please feel free to post them in comments or email me through the website.

Reader Query - Proper Undergarments for Low Back Dresses

Reader Tara writes, "I have a 1950s dress with scoop neck and a low V-back (point of the V ends at my waist), and I'm planning to wear it for graduation in June. What sort of bra would I wear with it? Or would a corset-type piece be better?"

Tara says that her graduation dress is cut lower than her green lace 1950s dress. First of all, Tara, congratulations on your graduation! You look beautiful in this dress.

If you don't normally wear a girdle, then a long line bra with a low back or a bra with convertible straps is what you want. Neither one of these is going to be easy to find and you'll probably have better success going to a high-end lingerie shop with a professional bra fitter on staff than searching online. Most importantly, be sure to take your dress with you for the fitting! A good bra like this is not going to be inexpensive and you want to make sure you get one that doesn't show!

Below are some images from the 1950s and 60s of the types of bras we're talking about.

Gossard Longerlyne bra.

Hollywood V-ette with low strap that wraps around the waist.

Jantzen Showback bra.

If you normally wear a girdle or corset, you'll probably need to find a strapless option with a low cut back. You might try a bridal store for this type of foundation garment if you don't have success in a regular lingerie shop.

Flexees Bare-bac Bouffante strapless corset.

Here are a few modern options from online shops if you can't find anything locally. The trick here will be to ask questions about how low the back drops on these foundations to make sure they'll work with your dress. Please note: Couture Allure does not receive compensation from any of these sites for promoting their products. I have not purchased any of these products, nor have I used any of these sites and cannot vouch for them. These are simply examples of what to look for.

Dominique Long Line Bra from HerRoom.com

Le Mystere Low Back Convertible Bra

Va Bien Backless Strapless corset

One last tip: Clothing adhesive tape is great for ensuring that there are no gaps in that low backed dress. It sticks to your skin and the fabric of your dress without leaving a sticky residue. Do a search this type of product, as there are many options available online.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #4

The final post in our series on correct foundation garments ends with a focus on sleek thighs. "Study the liquid lines of the dresses - they're newest in soft, covered-up wools for day-into-party wear. The brilliant red colorings (not for the timid) and subtly revealing cut (nice for the shapely) demand the firmest sort of discipline for hips and thighs. Pretties to aid and abet: long-legged panty girdles to comfortably coax and wheedle you into the willowy-wand shape that's needed."

The dress on the left has a flounce skirt in a printed wool/orlon jersey. The dress, by California Girl, sold for $30 (about $228 today) was sold at Hahne & Co., Newark, and Haggarty's, Los Angeles. Her long necklace is by D'Arlan.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Youthcraft panty girdle with red stripes on white and a Madenform cotton bra.

The solid red dress on the right by Jonathan Logan is in wool crepe. This dress sold for $15 (about $115 today) and was available at Lord & Taylor, May Co., and The Broadway. She wears a Coro necklace.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Jantzen panty girdle of nylon and Lastex with a Jantzen cotton bra.

I hope you've enjoyed this series of articles. Remember, these photos all came from Seventeen magazine - so proper foundation garments were expected to be worn by young girls, not just grown women. Can you imagine wearing a girdle to high school?

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #3

Today's focus is on smooth hips required when wearing a dress with a lowered waist. "Shimmy bodices that drop their waists down to hip-level...or lower, then meet rippling, flounced skirts. The silhouette-makers needed: hip-firming girdles, rounded bras."

The dress on the left has a gathered flared skirt below a dropped waist. It is by Youth Fair and sold for $15 in 1958 (about $112 today). It sold at Abraham & Strauss, Brooklyn and Rich's, Atlanta. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on her collar.

Under this dress, she is wearing a Hollywood Vassarette open bottom girdle with double panels of power net at the back and sides and a front V-shaped panel of nylon satin overlaid with point d'esprit lace. The Hollywood Vassarette bra is in nylon with lace cups.

The dress on the right by Teena Paige has a dropped waist, permanent pleated skirt and a sailor collar. It sold for $18 (about $135 today) and was available at Altman's, New York and Macy's, San Francisco. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on the collar.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Peter Pan panty girdle of nylon power net woven in elastic stripes. The Peter Pan cotton bra has contour cups.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #2

Continuing the series on the correct foundation garments, today we have two party dresses from 1958. The focus on today's spread is the tiny waist needed with fuller skirts. "Take a look at the luscious, jewel-toned dresses. See how their sculptured bodices and dome-shaped skirts show off your middle? They call, obviously, for a trim mid-section of your own."

The green satin dress on the left is a "princess sculptured" dress with self-fabric roses at the neckline and hem by Parklane, which was offered at Franklin Simon, New York and Jordan Marsh, Boston. The dress sold for about $30 ($225 today).

Under the green dress, the model is wearing a Formaid of Boston torso bra that molds from bosom to hips. With that, she wears a Saramac petticoat. Note that the petticoat has a flat panel from waist to hips and the long-line bra is worn over it.

The blue jacquard dress on the right has a "closely carved bodice and dome skirt that opens in a back pleat". This dress is by Carol Rodgers and sold for about $13 ($97 today). This dress was available at Burdine's, Miami and Altman's, New York. The skirt of this dress likely has the stiff Pellon interfacing, as the model is not wearing a crinoline under it.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Sarong Two nylon girdle that trims the waist with a high elastic waistband. Crisscross front with open bottom gives walking ease. Power net sides and satin elastic back. She is also wearing a Perma-lift strapless cotton contour bra.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #1

If you've ever purchased a vintage dress and wondered why it doesn't fit correctly, maybe you're not wearing the proper foundation garments. Prior to the late 1960's, clothing was styled and cut with the understanding that women would be wearing girdles and shapers underneath. In the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, there is a wonderful editorial spread photographed by Frencesco Scavullo that illustrates what type of foundation garments work best with several dress styles. I'll be featuring the photos and information from this spread this week.

The magazine is referring to these as "shaft dresses" (never heard that term before). "Newest shape for a shaft to take - the high-rise Empire waist, which looks prettiest over a softly rounded bosom, asks just supple control from there down."

The red dress is by Lanz in a lined rayon crepe. See that band across the bust? The magazine calls this a "bosom yoke" and it drops to a V-neck with a bow in the back. The dress was about $40 (about $298 today), and was sold at Bonwit Teller, New York, Vandervoort's, St. Louis, and The Crescent, Spokane. The model is wearing red DeLiso Debs shoes.

Under the red dress, the model is wearing a Formfit nylon bra with circle-stitched lace cups and a Formfit nylon elastic net panty girdle with a wide waistband and satin elastic vertical stretch panels front and back.

The model on the right in the top photo is wearing a blue wool jersey "shaft dress" by Jerry Greenwald. The front is gathered into a satin band at the Empire waist. In back, the dress is slit from V necline to hem, revealing a satin underslip. This dress also sold for about $40 and was available at Saks Fifth Avenue. That's a long, skinny brooch by Castlecliff pinned to the center of the satin band and the shoes are by Capezio.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Lovable "lightweight all-in-one for a long, slim line with easy control." Made of Helance nylon yarn with embroidered cotton broadcloth cups. This appears to be an open-bottom style.